Reefe RFL150 Solar Floating Lily Fountain

Before a hole is dug and you have an idea or the size & type of pond you need. It is feasible to ask your local dealer on the cost of items such as pumps, liners, ponds and filters etc. This will help to save on any cost blowouts once the pond is setup. Ponds without fish stock require the water volume to be turned over a minimum of once every 8 hours, low fish stock require a minimum of once every 4 hours and large fish stock such as Koi, a minimum of once every 2 hours. And to get the correct advice and equipment from the start. For successful fish keeping, a pump and biological filter are essential. A good filter system will give you clear water, aids in keeping fish healthy, aerates and oxygenates water, circulates would be stagnant water and most importantly saves you time. Although many people have said they have never had a pump or filter, they are often cleaning out their entire pond and replacing dead fish on a regular basis. As with most projects, you will forever enjoy something that is setup correctly the first time.

The small sponge filters found on the front of some pumps are only designed to stop particles damaging the moving parts (impellor) of the pump. They are not designed, nor capable of cleaning water.

High quality pumps are silent. Mid range pumps are very quiet but as you go down in price the noisier a pump becomes. Some pumps can be easily heard in a shop display but sometimes the noise can be hidden by surrounding sounds.

Yes, pond pumps have been around for many years without problems or safety concerns and we would not be allowed to sell them if they weren’t safe. As a safety precaution we always recommend a safety switch be installed on the house.

We also recommend that all water based electrical equipment should be unplugged before water gardeners immerse any part of their body in the water or clean a filter or UV Light.

Yes, depending on your needs there are several application specific pumps available such as fountain, water feature and filtration pumps.

For safety and warranty purposes we do not allow you to shorten/cut the cord even if done by an electrician.

Yes you can but remember you will always need to remove the pump from the pond for cleaning, repair or replacement so always keep this in mind when installing pumps or any pond equipment. Always make your equipment easy to remove.

If it is a damaged impellor, yes you can purchase another one and replace this but otherwise you would not be able to fix any other problems that may occur and it is best to return it to your place of purchase to be assessed and repaired if possible by our qualified technicians. Attempting repairs yourself will void the warranty.

Some pumps can but we recommend using them as they were designed – submersed in water. This will enable the pump to run at a cooler temperature. Pumps that can be run outside of the pond will need to be situated below the water level and be gravity fed as no pond pump can suck water upwards.

No, pond pumps cannot be used in chlorine as the chlorine calcifies on the impellor which can cause damage to both the pump and impellor and will void any warranty claim.

No, as a general rule. The majority of pond pumps on the market cannot be used in salt water as the salt builds up on the impellor which can cause damage to both the pump and impellor and this would not be covered under warranty. You would have to specifically ask for a pump that is rated to be used in salt water.

No, not at all, they are a standard electrical product that needs to be plugged into a weatherproof switch if being used outdoors.

Yes, all pond pumps require maintenance and cleaning from time to time depending on the water quality. Pumps with pre filters will require more maintenance as the filters do clog up easily and restrict the performance of the pump.

For pumps with pre filters you will need to remove the pre filter from the front of the pump, rinse out the filter and also check and clean the impellor inside the pump. For pumps with a cage design you will need to wipe any leaves or build up off the cage and open the cage and check the pump and impellor every now and then.

The question is largely dependent on your needs, you must decide whether the pump will be used for filtration, a water feature or to decorate a pond with a fountain. Once you have established the application of the pump you will then need to determine the size of the pump you require.

You should always run your pump 24/7 to ensure good water quality and prevent stagnant water which will allow mosquito’s to breed. This is especially important if you have fish in your pond as stopping the circulation will reduce oxygen levels in the pond and may lead to fish kills.

Pond pumps have a very low power consumption and therefore cost very little to run. As a general guide for every watt of power they will cost roughly $1 a watt per year to run 24 hours, 7 days a week. Eg. 80 watts = $80 per year in running costs. This is an approximation only and will vary between areas. Please check with your local power authority for confirmation.

If the cord cannot be concealed using the natural materials around the pond such as rocks and garden beds, you can use products that allow you to pass the cable through the wall of the pond with a water proof seal rather than over the edge.

Head height is the maximum height to which a pump can push water, at this height the pump will only produce a trickle.

This will depend on whether your pump has a thermal safety switch or not. Quality pumps will have a thermal safety switch built in, this is a safety mechanism that will turn the pump off and protect it if it overheats. Pumps without a thermal safety switch will traditionally burn themselves out when they are run dry and overheat, once this occurs you will notice a warping of the pump at which point the pumps will no longer work, are irrepairable and would not be covered under warranty.

– The application.

– Running costs.

– Submersible or External running.

– Safety of a thermal safety switch.

– Maintenance.

– Quiet/Silent.

– Reliability.

– Extended Warranty.

Pond pumps are designed to run continuously, have lower power consumption than pool or sump pumps, are compact and submersible.

We do not recommend it, as most pool pumps are not rated to run continuously, have more moving parts and have very high power consumption therefore very high running costs.

Ponds require water movement to maintain a healthy, well-balanced pond or to create an impressive water feature. Moving water can offer benefits to any type of water feature in the form of recirculation, aeration, and ornamentation. The best way to move water in a pond is by installing a pump. Even if your pond is solely ornamental, a pump will be required to prevent stagnation, inhibit algae growth, inhibit insect pests, and to power a decorative water display. Stagnant water tends to have a distinctive, unpleasant scent, which is generally undesirable for an ornamental pond. Streams, waterfalls, fountains, and spitters all require a pump.

With price comes quality, the more expensive pumps will have more features and benefits such as thermal safety switches, lower power consumption, silence, reliability and reduced maintenance through the use of cages rather than foam pre filters all backed by a longer warranty period. The cheaper pond pumps are traditionally very basic, have higher power consumption, are less reliable and have a shorter warranty.

Not on it’s own, it will definitely help by turning over and oxygenating the water but at some point you will need the help of filtration or treatments to keep your water clean. The sponge filters that are found on some pumps are not capable of keeping water clean, they are only there to protect the moving impellor from particle damage.

Definitely not, a pump will actually help improve the health of your fish by turning over the water and improving the water quality in your pond.