HR Poly Start Connector 10mm x 13mm

Whenever you’re connecting two threaded fittings, teflon is required. The only exception is whenever either fitting has an O-ring, in this case, do not apply teflon as it may cause the O-ring to not seal correctly. The amount of teflon you apply depends on the application. In any constant pressure applications you look at up to wrapping around the thread up to 20 times, whereas in any non-constant pressure applications, like on irrigation risers, 2 or 3 times around the thread is enough.

The main cause of blowout is pressure. Whether it’s poly fittings, PVC fittings or timers, whatever the component, if the pressure is too high for what it’s designed for, kaboom! Simply solve the problem with a pressure reducer & make it a brass one if it’s on your water supply.

There’s no best type of sprinkler, just better sprinklers for different applications. Gear Drives are better for large areas, over 5m. Pop-Ups are ideal for 1.5-5m & Micro sprays are excellent for anything under that.

Drip tube is excellent in areas of rich dense soil where water spreads nicely throughout. Installed under mulch, the water is delivered with minimal evaporation & wastage, going direct to the root ball.

No, drip tube isn’t simply holes punched into poly pipe. Inside each hole is an intricate dripper which delivers that water nice and evenly. Punching a hole will simply create an uncontrolled leak!

Each sprinkler & nozzle will push out water at different rates, but the key factor is the flow rate of your water supply. Work that out with a simple timed bucket test. From there, you can work out how much water each sprinkler you’re looking at uses & work within your flow limit. For more information, check our Product Guides.

As you install a system, it’s almost inevitable that small fragments of dirt will get into the pipe, for this reason you should always flush out the system before running it the first time. This can be done by leaving an open end at the farthest point of each irrigation zone & operating the zone for 15 or so seconds to flush it out. Then plug it up & you’re good to go! This can also be said for any other times dirt may have gotten into the system (eg: further irrigation repairs or a mains water supply fault).

We definitely don’t recommend it. Typically, drip tube will deliver the water at a far slower rate that sprays. Because of this, if you were to have both on the same zone, the areas with drip would be left far drier than the areas with sprinkler coverage. If you do want to water some areas with drip & some with sprinklers, it can be done, but each will just need to be run on their own separate irrigation zones.

Even on a typical domestic system running on mains water a filter is still a good idea. In the event of a water main fault where rubbish does find it’s way down the line, a filter will protect the system from blockage and or failure. On systems operating off recycled water, like from a tank, a screen filter is mandatory. Debris like silt & dirt from recycled water is the most common cause of blockages of failures in irrigation systems.

To choose the right irrigation system, consider the size and layout of your garden or lawn, the types of plants you’re watering and your water source. Spray systems are ideal for most applications like lawns and gardens, while drip irrigation works well for mulched garden beds and areas exposed to wind and evaporation. For expert advice tailored to your needs, request a quote from us.

To set up an irrigation system, start by planning the layout, then install the mainline pipes, valves and fittings. Attach the sprinklers, drip emitters or other irrigation devices, and connect the system to a controller. Finally, test and adjust the system to check for proper coverage and efficiency. For a more precise and tailored setup, visit our Design Department. Our experts can design and quote a customised irrigation system that perfectly fits your landscape.