Netafim Landline 8 Micro Drip Tube

Unless a drip tube is designed for use under ground, with anti-root intrusion technology, it’s should not be buried under soil. However, performs at its best when installed under mulch where the water is delivered with minimal evaporation.

The type of pipe you use depends on the water pressure of the application. For example, in any application under constant mains pressure like before your Irrigation Valves, you’ll need pipe that can cope. This rules out Low Density Poly Pipe & you’ll need to use something like Class 12 PVC or Metric Poly Pipe, these typically have a rating of Class 12, or PN12 which translates to being able to cope with 1200kPa. For irrigation lines after the valves in most domestic applications, Low Density Poly Pipe is ideal. In this situation, the operating pressure is much lower because the water is able to escape out of the operating sprinklers or drip tube & once the valves shut off, there is no static pressure build up.

Pipe sizing is all about reducing friction loss & allowing maximum flow to all points of your garden. There are a number of variables to consider, but in most domestic applications, 19mm Poly Pipe is the common choice. In larger areas, where you may have to run pipe 30-40m to the start of an irrigation zone, or zones with large sprinklers with high flow requirements, you may want to consider upping your pipe size to 25mm of more boost that flow output.

The term ‘Pressure Compensating’ in Drip Tube, means each dripper is regulated so that the flow out of each dripper is even, from the first dripper to the last. Which is very important when you’re after even water coverage.

Definitely not! A hole punched in a drip line is what we call… a leak! In contrast, the drippers built into the wall if drip lines are intricate units that tightly control the flow for even water distribution. A leak will not only let out far too much water in one concentrated place, it will also negatively affect the performance of the rest of the drip tube as well!

The main cause of blowout is pressure. Whether it’s poly fittings, PVC fittings or timers, whatever the component, if the pressure is too high for what it’s designed for, kaboom! Simply solve the problem with a pressure reducer & make it a brass one if it’s on your water supply.

There’s no best type of sprinkler, just better sprinklers for different applications. Gear Drives are better for large areas, over 5m. Pop-Ups are ideal for 1.5-5m & Micro sprays are excellent for anything under that.

Drip tube is excellent in areas of rich dense soil where water spreads nicely throughout. Installed under mulch, the water is delivered with minimal evaporation & wastage, going direct to the root ball.

No, drip tube isn’t simply holes punched into poly pipe. Inside each hole is an intricate dripper which delivers that water nice and evenly. Punching a hole will simply create an uncontrolled leak!

Each sprinkler & nozzle will push out water at different rates, but the key factor is the flow rate of your water supply. Work that out with a simple timed bucket test. From there, you can work out how much water each sprinkler you’re looking at uses & work within your flow limit. For more information, check our Product Guides.

As you install a system, it’s almost inevitable that small fragments of dirt will get into the pipe, for this reason you should always flush out the system before running it the first time. This can be done by leaving an open end at the farthest point of each irrigation zone & operating the zone for 15 or so seconds to flush it out. Then plug it up & you’re good to go! This can also be said for any other times dirt may have gotten into the system (eg: further irrigation repairs or a mains water supply fault).

We definitely don’t recommend it. Typically, drip tube will deliver the water at a far slower rate that sprays. Because of this, if you were to have both on the same zone, the areas with drip would be left far drier than the areas with sprinkler coverage. If you do want to water some areas with drip & some with sprinklers, it can be done, but each will just need to be run on their own separate irrigation zones.

Even on a typical domestic system running on mains water a filter is still a good idea. In the event of a water main fault where rubbish does find it’s way down the line, a filter will protect the system from blockage and or failure. On systems operating off recycled water, like from a tank, a screen filter is mandatory. Debris like silt & dirt from recycled water is the most common cause of blockages of failures in irrigation systems.

Drip irrigation is a water-efficient system that delivers water directly to the roots of plants through a network of drip tubes or emitters. It precisely releases water at the optimal precipitation rate, minimising evaporation and runoff. This targeted approach ensures plants receive the right amount of water, promotes healthier growth and reduces water waste, making it ideal for sustainable gardening.

Drip irrigation offers numerous benefits, including:

• Water efficiency — Reduces evaporation and runoff by targeting roots directly.
• Cost savings — It uses less water and lowers bills.
• Healthier plants — Provides consistent, precise watering.
• Eco-friendly — Minimises water waste and promotes sustainability.
• Low maintenance — Fewer moving parts mean fewer repairs.

Ideal for gardens, lawns and agricultural applications, drip irrigation stands as a smart, sustainable watering solution.

To set up a drip irrigation system, plan your layout, considering plant types and spacing. Install a pressure reducer and filter at the water source. Lay drip tubing in a uniform grid throughout garden beds, securing it with pins. Finally, test the system to ensure even water distribution.

Yes, drip irrigation is ideal for both vegetable gardens and flower beds. It delivers precise, consistent water directly to plant roots, promoting healthier growth, reducing water waste, and ensuring optimal hydration for various plants and layouts.

Fully installed by a professional, a domestic irrigation system will come out to about $1000 per zone. And as a DIY project, it can look more like $300 per zone! But of course that’s a very rough estimate, each system is different and there are a lot of factors to consider. Thankfully, we have the only tool around that INSTANTLY give an accurate estimate for your. Try our INSTANT Irrigation Quote Tool here!

To choose the right irrigation system, consider the size and layout of your garden or lawn, the types of plants you’re watering and your water source. Spray systems are ideal for most applications like lawns and gardens, while drip irrigation works well for mulched garden beds and areas exposed to wind and evaporation. For expert advice tailored to your needs, request a quote from us.

To set up an irrigation system, start by planning the layout, then install the mainline pipes, valves and fittings. Attach the sprinklers, drip emitters or other irrigation devices, and connect the system to a controller. Finally, test and adjust the system to check for proper coverage and efficiency. For a more precise and tailored setup, visit our Design Department. Our experts can design and quote a customised irrigation system that perfectly fits your landscape.