
An economical water saver that eliminates low head drainage for sprinklers located on slopes.
If you have ever been faced with a job site that features extremes in elevation, then you have first-hand knowledge about low head drainage. Unfortunately, a system that requires ups and downs to fit the landscape will find that the water in its pipes seeks out the low points when the system is at rest. That typically results in messy puddling at the heads located at the lowest elevation and, ultimately, wasted water on walkways. With the Hunter HCV, this will never be a problem again. Easily adjust to the proper check height and insert this remarkable product in between the riser and sprinkler head. If you’ve ever used an HCV before, you know just how simple this is – it’s the easiest to adjust drain check valve available and can handle elevation extremes up to 32 feet. However, what you probably don’t know is that it is now constructed to schedule 80 specifications, making it more durable and long-lasting than ever.
Features:
- Adjustment access from top of valve
- Adjusts to compensate for elevational changes up to 11 m: Maximum flexibility
- Variety of inlet and outlet options: Reduces need for additional fittings
- Meets schedule 80 specifications: Durable under high pressure
Hunter HCV Check Valves
Hunter HCV Check Valve (15mm M&F) SKU: FPV-CHECKHUN15MF |
$17.68 $35.93 |
Hunter HCV Check Valve (15mm F&F) SKU: FPV-CHECKHUN15FF |
$17.82 $36.62 |
Hunter HCV Check Valve (20mm M&F) SKU: FPV-CHECKHUN20MF |
$20.36 $42.04 |
Product Description
An economical water saver that eliminates low head drainage for sprinklers located on slopes.
If you have ever been faced with a job site that features extremes in elevation, then you have first-hand knowledge about low head drainage. Unfortunately, a system that requires ups and downs to fit the landscape will find that the water in its pipes seeks out the low points when the system is at rest. That typically results in messy puddling at the heads located at the lowest elevation and, ultimately, wasted water on walkways. With the Hunter HCV, this will never be a problem again. Easily adjust to the proper check height and insert this remarkable product in between the riser and sprinkler head. If you’ve ever used an HCV before, you know just how simple this is – it’s the easiest to adjust drain check valve available and can handle elevation extremes up to 32 feet. However, what you probably don’t know is that it is now constructed to schedule 80 specifications, making it more durable and long-lasting than ever.
Features:
- Adjustment access from top of valve
- Adjusts to compensate for elevational changes up to 11 m: Maximum flexibility
- Variety of inlet and outlet options: Reduces need for additional fittings
- Meets schedule 80 specifications: Durable under high pressure
Product Specifications
Hunter HCV Check Valve (15mm M&F) | Hunter HCV Check Valve (15mm F&F) | Hunter HCV Check Valve (20mm M&F) | |
---|---|---|---|
Product Type | Check Valve | Check Valve | Check Valve |
Product Material | Plastic | Plastic | Plastic |
Product Colour | Grey | Grey | Grey |
Product Inlet Thread Size | 15mm BSPF | 15mm BSPF | 20mm BSPF |
Product Outlet Thread Size | 15mm BSPM | 15mm BSPF | 20mm BSPM |
PVC Valves & Accessories, Risers & Fittings FAQs
Irrigation systems utilise a variety of pipes, each offering unique advantages. Polyethylene (poly) pipe is a popular choice due to its flexibility, durability and suitability for underground installation. Another standard option is the PVC pipe, valued for its corrosion resistance. Interestingly different parts of Australia, have their different preferences! For applications requiring superior strength and durability, such as central water connections, brass fittings and valves are often preferred because they are highly resistant to corrosion and wear. Copper pipes, while less common in modern systems due to their higher cost, are still valued for their exceptional resilience from ground movement.
The size of piping depends on a number of factors, but the main one is the length of the run. Longer pipe lengths also necessitate larger diameters to minimise friction loss. Higher water pressure allows for smaller pipes, but excessively high pressure may require larger sizes to handle the force. Finally, the desired flow rate at the endpoint also influences the pipe size you’ll need. For more comprehensive assistance, please reach out to our experts.
Preventing leaks in your irrigation system starts with using the right fittings for your pipe type and adequately preparing the pipe ends for a secure connection. Apply thread tape to threaded fittings and appropriate sealant for solvent-welded connections. Tighten fittings securely, but avoid over-tightening. Regularly inspect your system for any signs of leaks to address potential issues promptly.
Yes, burying irrigation pipes underground is a common practice and offers several advantages. It protects the pipes from damage, reduces water evaporation and keeps them out of sight for a cleaner landscape aesthetic.
However, it’s crucial to choose the right type of pipe for underground installation. Polyethylene (poly) pipe is specifically designed for this purpose, thanks to its flexibility and durability. Always check local building codes and regulations for any requirements regarding underground pipe installation.
Whenever you’re connecting two threaded fittings, teflon is required. The only exception is whenever either fitting has an O-ring, in this case, do not apply teflon as it may cause the O-ring to not seal correctly. The amount of teflon you apply depends on the application. In any constant pressure applications you look at up to wrapping around the thread up to 20 times, whereas in any non-constant pressure applications, like on irrigation risers, 2 or 3 times around the thread is enough.
There’s no best type of sprinkler, just better sprinklers for different applications. Gear Drives are better for large areas, over 5m. Pop-Ups are ideal for 1.5-5m & Micro sprays are excellent for anything under that.
The type of nozzle all depends on how far you need to spray, each nozzle is specified by the radius it sprays & the spray arc it provides (0-360 degrees). Aim to spray to the base of the next closest sprinkler for even watering. For more information on planning, check out our Product Guides.
Each sprinkler & nozzle will push out water at different rates, but the key factor is the flow rate of your water supply. Work that out with a simple timed bucket test. From there, you can work out how much water each sprinkler you’re looking at uses & work within your flow limit. For more information, check our Product Guides.
As you install a system, it’s almost inevitable that small fragments of dirt will get into the pipe, for this reason you should always flush out the system before running it the first time. This can be done by leaving an open end at the farthest point of each irrigation zone & operating the zone for 15 or so seconds to flush it out. Then plug it up & you’re good to go! This can also be said for any other times dirt may have gotten into the system (eg: further irrigation repairs or a mains water supply fault).
We definitely don’t recommend it. Typically, drip tube will deliver the water at a far slower rate that sprays. Because of this, if you were to have both on the same zone, the areas with drip would be left far drier than the areas with sprinkler coverage. If you do want to water some areas with drip & some with sprinklers, it can be done, but each will just need to be run on their own separate irrigation zones.
Firstly, each sprinkler &/or nozzle has a specified spray radius. Secondly, sprinklers are typically designed to deliver more water at their base & progressively less the further away you get. For this reason, you want to position sprinklers so they spray to hit the base of the next sprinkler. Of course this isn’t possible all the time so in those cases, aim to spray at least 80% of the way. By doing this you will guarantee even water across your lawn or garden.
Even on a typical domestic system running on mains water a filter is still a good idea. In the event of a water main fault where rubbish does find it’s way down the line, a filter will protect the system from blockage and or failure. On systems operating off recycled water, like from a tank, a screen filter is mandatory. Debris like silt & dirt from recycled water is the most common cause of blockages of failures in irrigation systems.
Spray irrigation mimics natural rainfall by distributing water through a system of sprinklers and pipes. A pressurised water source – either mains supply, or from a pump – forces water through pipework and out of the water sprinkler nozzles, creating a spray that falls onto the landscape. This method efficiently delivers water to a wide area, ensuring even coverage and promoting healthy plant growth.
Spray irrigation systems, or sprinkler systems, distribute water through above-ground sprinklers, creating a wide spray pattern covering a larger area. This makes it efficient for watering lawns and large garden beds where uniform coverage is desired. However, this setup can lead to water loss through evaporation and wind drift, especially in hot or windy conditions.
Drip irrigation, on the other hand, delivers water directly to the plant roots through a grid of tubes with embedded emitters. This direct delivery approach is ideal for watering specific plants, rows of vegetables or areas with irregular shapes. By delivering water slowly and directly to the root zone, drip irrigation promotes deeper root growth and reduces weed germination. Please keep in mind that this system may not be suitable for large lawns, overly sandy areas or areas that require overhead watering.
Regular maintenance ensures your spray irrigation system operates efficiently and provides optimal watering for years to come. Start by periodically inspecting your system for leaks, clogged nozzles and damaged heads. Clear any debris obstructing the spray heads and adjust sprinkler heads to ensure proper coverage. It’s also important to flush your system occasionally to remove any sediment buildup. And although not typical for the Australian climate, some people may need to winterise their system in colder climates by draining the water to prevent pipes from freezing and cracking.
While many maintenance tasks can be performed by homeowners, consider scheduling professional maintenance at least once a year. A qualified technician can thoroughly inspect your system, identify potential problems and perform necessary repairs or adjustments to optimise performance and water efficiency.
To choose the right irrigation system, consider the size and layout of your garden or lawn, the types of plants you’re watering and your water source. Spray systems are ideal for most applications like lawns and gardens, while drip irrigation works well for mulched garden beds and areas exposed to wind and evaporation. For expert advice tailored to your needs, request a quote from us.
To set up an irrigation system, start by planning the layout, then install the mainline pipes, valves and fittings. Attach the sprinklers, drip emitters or other irrigation devices, and connect the system to a controller. Finally, test and adjust the system to check for proper coverage and efficiency. For a more precise and tailored setup, visit our Design Department. Our experts can design and quote a customised irrigation system that perfectly fits your landscape.
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